Concrete is a high quality,
versatile construction
material preferred by home owners, home builders and developers for its
durability, attractive appearance and long service life.
Concrete provides trouble-free service for many years, if the following six guidelines are followed:
1. SUB GRADE PREPARATION
Topsoil and organic matter should be removed. A granular base (stone or sand)
may be necessary, and fill materials must be compacted uniformly. Because
"flat" pavements can collect water, the sub grade should be sloped.
Exterior pavements, such as patios, driveways, walkways, and parking areas,
should slope at least 1/8 inch per foot. At the time concrete is placed, the sub grade
should be sprayed with water so that it is moist but not muddy.
2. PERFORMANCE CONCRETE
Strength: 4,000 + pound per square inch (psi) in 28 days
Air Entrainment: 6% ± 1 %
Slump: 4 inches ± 1 inch
3. PLACING & FINISHING
Concrete should be placed, then screeded to the proper elevation. The surface
should be bull floated before bleed water accumulates on the surface. Finishing
must be delayed until water sheen has disappeared from the surface. The least
amount of finishing should then be done: do not add water to or overwork the
surface. A broom finish is recommended for exterior concrete, except when
special textured finishes (like exposed aggregate or stamped or impressed
finishes) are desired. In hot weather, fresh concrete should be protected from
the sun and wind - even before it is finished. Confirm, a surface evaporation
retarder, is one way to protect concrete in hot weather. Concrete can also be
safely placed in cold weather when proper precautions are taken.
4. PROPER DESIGN
For patios, walkways and most driveway pavement, a 4" to 5" thickness
is satisfactory. Control joints should be set 8 feet to 10 feet apart each way.
They should be 1 inch deep and should be made by sawing or tooling. Sawed joints
must be cut as soon as possible without raveling the concrete. Control joints
need not be filled. Isolation joints should be used at garage doors, where
driveways abut sidewalks and the street, or where patios abut the house.
Isolation joints should extend completely through the slab and provide total
separation between new and old slabs. Isolation joints should contain premolded
joint filler 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch thick.
5. PROPER CURING
Proper curing greatly increases the durability of concrete. Concrete should be
cured with a curing compound sprayed on the surface immediately after the final
finishing, or by approved moist curing methods. Concrete should cure 3 to 7 days
before being put in service. (For driveways, car traffic may begin after 3 days;
trucks and other vehicles, 7 days.) A cure and seal compound with an ultraviolet
(UV) protection is recommended to keep your concrete from gaining a yellow tint.
6. PROPER AFTERCARE
Water repellent concrete sealers can help to prevent surface defects from cold
weather by keeping water from getting into the surface pores. Most sealer
applications are effective for about a two year period. (Note: Use of some
sealers can cause darkening of your concrete surface - ask your sealer
distributor if the sealer will darken the color of your concrete pavement.)
Never use deicing chemicals on new or recently placed concrete. If traction is needed during the pavement's first winter, the Portland Cement Association recommends spreading sand or cinder chips. Washing off road salt that drips from your vehicles is also recommended. After the first winter, deicing chemicals containing sodium chloride (common salt) or calcium chloride may be used.
Exterior residential concrete flatwork has no equal in terms of quality, value, dependability, good looks and long service life, if the concrete is designed, produced and installed correctly.
And while concrete's initial costs can be higher than other materials, its good looks, durability and long service life mean life-cycle costs are much lower.
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