Scaling
This is also called flaking. Most scaling can be prevented by:
The use of air entrained concrete
Your ready-mix producer and concrete contractor control the amount
of air entrained in the concrete and the mix quality.
Proper finishing
The concrete contractor must be aware of the proper timing of the
finishing operations, which can vary greatly depending on the
weather. Finishing too early or over finishing can result in a weak
concrete surface, susceptible to scaling.
Judicious use of deicing salts
Calcium or sodium chloride salts on their own will not chemically
damage or etch your concrete, but the fact that they do allow the
surface to stay saturated with water can damage your concrete.
Deicing products and fertilizers made with ammonium nitrate or
ammonium sulfate can chemically attack the concrete, causing severe
damage.
Deicing salts are not recommended in the first year and over the
long haul should always be used judiciously. Use plain sand instead.
Insufficient or no curing
Failure to properly cure your concrete often results in a weak
surface skin which will be prone to scaling. Although proper curing
should be done by your concrete contractor, it is absolutely
necessary that you and your contractor work together on this because
the curing method is determined by your plans for ongoing
maintenance.
Curing Concrete - How is it done?
There are numerous methods for curing concrete from covering with
plastic sheeting or wet burlap to the use of straw or ponded water.
Moist Curing
Probably the best method for curing concrete is to flood the
surface continuously with water for the
first seven (7) days after placement. However, it is important that
the concrete not be allowed to dry out. Often, contractors will
recommend to the home owner to wet the new driveway for the first
week after its completion. But, if the concrete is allowed to dry
between soakings, this alternate wetting and drying may actually
damage the concrete. So if you are going to water cure, plan on
keeping the sprinkler going for at least a week.
Membrane Curing
The most common method of curing new concrete driveways is the
use of a liquid membrane-forming compound normally called a curing
compound or a 'cure and seal'. These materials are usually sprayed
or rolled on the concrete surface. Once dry, they form a thin film
like varnish on wood which restricts the evaporation of moisture
from the concrete.
The most important thing to remember regarding the use of a
curing compound is timing. The application of these products should
be done as soon as the final finishing operations are complete or as
soon as their application won't mar the concrete's surface. So if
someone says, "Let's wait until tomorrow," you will know
it's not a good idea.
The next most important thing is application rate. A light
sprinkling or dusting on the surface will not do the trick.
A sufficient coat according to the manufacturer's recommended
coverage rate is critical.
Curing with sealing in mind
When choosing the curing method and materials that will be used
on your driveway, one important aspect to consider is how you intend
to seal and maintain your concrete in the future. Sealing your
concrete is addressed in the next section, but for now let's look at
how the curing method can affect your sealing decision.
The most common type of membrane cure used is referred to as a
'cure and seal'. But let's make one thing clear, this is not
a one step process for permanent concrete sealing. It does, however,
dictate the use of a film-forming sealer unless the 'cure and seal'
is chemically removed or sand blasted away.
If you plan to use a penetrating sealer for ongoing maintenance,
then your concrete should either be moist cured or cured with an
easily removed concrete curing compound.
By making the sealing choice before the driveway is installed,
you can then inform your contractor on the curing method that you
would prefer.
Choosing a Sealer
The 'Wet Look' vs the 'Dry Look'
| Wet Look - Film Formers |
Dry Look - Penetrating Sealers |
| Advantages |
- tend to be less costly
- better stain protection (i.e., oil, grease, etc.)
- usually compatible with curing method used
- glossy to medium gloss look.
|
- should not change the concrete's appearance
- less frequent application needed
|
| Disadvantages |
- can darken the concrete
- may appear blotchy if not evenly applied
- will wear away, requiring more frequent applications
- may create a slippery surface
|
- usually more costly
- not as good of a stain protector
- cannot be applied over a film former
|
Film Formers - 'Wet Look'
The film formers are usually made from acrylic or rubber based
compounds. They form a thin coating on the surface of your concrete,
leaving a wet look, much like varnish does on wood. These products
generally tend to be less expensive on a per gallon basis than their
penetrating counterparts, but you'll probably find that they will
need more frequent application since they will weather and wear away
more quickly.
One significant advantage of the film formers is that there is
usually not a compatibility concern with the method of curing used
or whatever previous sealer might have been applied.
The biggest problem that can develop with the film formers is
that they tend to darken the color of your concrete. Just like
varnish will darken or enrich the color of wood, these will do the
same to concrete. And just like it may take several coats of varnish
to provide an even, rich color, don't expect the film forming
concrete sealer to perform differently. If after one coat you get
some dark areas and some light, you may want to apply another coat
to make it evenly dark. These initial variations in color may be
caused by natural variances in the porosity of the concrete and/or
uneven application, but they are quite normal.
One other potential problem is too much of a film build up on the
surface may reduce the friction that keeps feet or tires from
slipping.
Penetrating Sealers - 'Dry Look'
Most penetrating sealers are made from derivatives of silicone
called silanes or siloxanes. These materials are designed to
penetrate into the pores of the concrete, and once there, react with
the alkaline materials and moisture present to form silicone. The
silicone filled pores then make your concrete water repellent.
While the silane and siloxane penetrating sealers are usually
more expensive than the film formers, they should last longer too.
Another reason that the penetrating sealers are gaining in
popularity in spite of their price, is that, when properly applied,
they don't change the apperance of the concrete. Their biggest
disadvantage, or at least the major concern in their application, is
that there can be no other membrane cure or sealer on the concrete
when applying and the concrete must be at least 28 days old.
A note on linseed oil sealers
Other commonly sold sealers for concrete are based on linseed oil
in solvent. These are very effective concrete sealers. However,
linseed oil is a very dark material and many people find the dark,
blotchy result objectionable
|