
BASIC's Cleaning Concrete
The
major reasons for removing stains and cleaning concrete surfaces are either to
improve the surface appearance or to prepare the surface for a surface treatment
or concrete overlay. The methods
used for each reason are described in the following paragraphs.
If
hot water and soap do not work, coffee, tea, alcoholic beverages, and soft drink
stains can be removed by applying a bandage saturated with 1 part glycerol
(glycerin) diluted with 4 parts water. Two
parts of isopropyl alcohol may be added to this mixture to hasten the removal
action. The bleaches described for
removal of smoke stains are also effective in removing stubborn coffee and other
stains. A poultice of talc and
trichloroethylene can be used on tough stains.
Wet
the bloodstain with clear water and cover it with a thin, even layer of sodium
peroxide powder. Take care not
to breath any of the peroxide dust nor to allow it to come in contact with the
skin, as it is very caustic. Sprinkle
the powder with water or apply a water-saturated bandage and allow it to stand
for a few minutes. Wash with clear
water and scrub vigorously. Next, brush a 5% solution of acetic acid (vinegar) on the
surface to neutralize any alkaline traces left by the sodium peroxide.
Rinse with clear water at the end of the treatment.
Hydrogen
peroxide or trisodium phosphate can be substituted for the sodium peroxide,
although they may not work as well. Vinegar
neutralization is not necessary with the hydrogen peroxide treatment.
Airborne
dirt can collect on any concrete surface to form a dark and sometimes oily
buildup or stain. Buildings with
architectural concrete may need to be cleaned of air pollution-induced dirt
deposits to regain their original appearance.
Some dirt can be removed by scrubbing with detergent and water or 1 part
hydrochloric acid in about 20 parts water.
However, special proprietary cleaners, made to remove dirt with minimal
attack of the concrete, are often preferred over hydrochloric acid solutions
that attack concrete.
A
solution of 1 part phosphoric acid to about 3 parts water can be used to scrub
away light to moderate amounts of dirt with little to no attack of the concrete.
Proprietary cleaners, made with hydrochloric acid and buffers to protect
the concrete, are used to remove severe dirt buildup. An alkaline pre-wash followed by an acetic acid wash is
another cleaning method. Special
cleaning solutions can be specially designed to remove particular type of dirt.
The
methods used to remove oil can be helpful in removing very oily dirt.
Steam cleaning and light sandblasting or water blasting are also
effective.
Once
a surface is clean, it is good practice to apply a breathable clear sealer (such
as a methacrylate or acrylic-based material) or a clear water-repellent
penetrating sealer (such as silane or siloxane) to resist dirt build-up and make
future cleaning easier. Some
cleaning specialists prefer the silane or siloxane treatments for their high
breathability (often with a 95% vapor transmission).
Most
solidified epoxies can be removed from small areas by burning them off with a
blowtorch. Adequate ventilation
must be provided since black acrid smoke will be given off. If a black stain remains, it can be treated as indicated for
smoke stains. Abrasive blasting is
more appropriate for large areas.
A
large number of commercially available products are suitable for removing
spray-paint and felt-tip markings from concrete surfaces.
These products are generally effective also for removing crayon, chalk,
and lipstick. The manufacturer’s
directions should always be followed. If
satisfactory results are not obtained with the first remover applied, a second
or third attempt with other products should be made.
A single products may not remove both spray-paint and felt-tip-pens
stains.
If
a proprietary cleaner is not available, methylene chloride can be used.
While wearing protective clothing, brush methylene chloride onto the
surface, wait 2 minutes, and rinse with water during continued brushing. Oxalic acid or hydrogen peroxide can be used to help bleach
out some of the pigment from the concrete pours.
Solutions of sodium hydroxide, xylene, or methyl ethyl ketone are also
helpful in removing graffiti. Effective
cleaning can also be accomplished with waterblasting and sandblasting.
After
the graffiti is removed, or preferably before a structure is placed in service,
an anti-graffiti coating or sealer should be applied.
The surface treatment should prevent graffiti from entering the pours of
the concrete and should facilitate removal of the graffiti, preferable without
removing the surface treatment.
Aliphatic urethanes are considered the best anti-graffiti coatings because of their resistance to solvents, yellowing and abrasion. Solvents such as mineral spirits or methyl ethyl ketone can remove most graffiti from an aliphatic polyurethane without compromising the urethane coating. Acrylics, epoxies, silanes, and siloxanes are also used to make graffiti removal easier; however, acrylics dissolve with the solvent and epoxies tend to yellow or discolor. Silanes and siloxanes may not resist certain graffiti materials as well as urethanes, but they do maintain a high breathability at the concrete surface while resisting penetration of graffiti materials into the concrete.
Grease
does not penetrate into concrete, so scraping and scrubbing usually will remove
it.
Scrape
off all excess grease from the surface and scrub with scouring powder, trisodium
phosphate, or detergent. If
staining persists, methods involving solvents are required.
Use
refined naphtha solvent (mineral spirits) or a chlorinated-hydrocarbon solvent
such as trichloroethylene*
to make a stiff poultice. Apply to
the stain and do not remove until the paste is thoroughly dry.
Repeat the application as often as necessary. If required, scrub with strong soap, scouring powder,
trisodium phosphate, or proprietary cleaners specially formulated for removing
grease on concrete. Rinse with
clear water at the end of treatment.
For
large areas, such as the entire floor, use butyl cellosolve (with proper
ventilation) or a metasilicate or other alkaline floor cleaner to emulsify
all grease and oil on the slab surface. Brush
scrubbing is usually required. Before
the cleaning solutions dries or the emulsion breaks down, flood-rinse with water
after scrubbing. Other solvents
that can b used to remove grease include sodium carbonate, carbon tetrachloride
and chloroform.
*
Do not use trichloroethylene with portland cement to make a poultice as it
reacts with strong alkalis such as cement or fresh concrete and forms dangerous
gases.
Prepare
a solution of 1 oz (0.03 kg) of commercial laundry detergent, 3 oz. (0.09 kg) of
trisodium phosphate, 1qt (0.95 litres) of commercial laundry bleach, and 3 qt
(2.8 litres) of water. Apply to the
area with a soft brush. Rinse with
clear water after the treatment.
Exterior
concrete surfaces that are not exposed to sunlight and remain in a constantly
damp condition may exhibit signs of plant growth such as moss.
These growths have been successfully removed by application of ammonium
sulfamate (marketed under the manufacturer’s brand name and available in
garden supply stores). The
treatment must be done according to directions furnished with the compound.
Should an unsightly powdery deposit be left on the surface, it can be
removed by washing with water.
Another
method is to use a solution of 1 part sodium pentachlorophenate to 8 parts water
by volume. It should be applied so
that the moss or other growth is thoroughly saturated.
If the surface is exposed to rain within 24 hours following the
application, some of the solution will be lost and a further application may be
necessary. About one week after the pentachlorophenate solution has been
applied, all vegetable growth should have been killed and the residue can be
removed by brushing. The surface
will usually retain sufficient weed killer in inhibit further growth for some
time.
Other
chemical solutions that can be used are sodium hypochlorite (laundry bleach);
formaldehyde (1 part formalin in 49-part water); copper nitrate or copper
sulfate – 5 oz (0.14 kg) to 1 gal (3.8 litres) of water.
Boiling water alone may also be used.
For
best results, the surface should be sealed after dirt and dead moss have been
brushed off. There are a variety of
paints or transparent sealers commercially available for this type of
application. An effective sealer
may consist of a mixture of 33% sodium silicate in water with the addition of 1%
ammonium chloride as coagulator. This
sealer allows growth to be washed off easily, but will not prevent its
formation. Other sealers, such as 7
oz (0.2 kg) by weight of magnesium fluosilicate or zinc fluosilicate in 1 gal
(3.8 litres) of water, are also helpful.
In
following simple methods should effectively remove oil stains from driveways and
parking lots.
Method
A: Saturate
the area with mineral spirits or paint thinner.
The cover with an absorbent material such as dry portland cement, talc,
cat litter, Fuller’s earth, corn meal, or cornstarch.
Let stand overnight, and sweep away the cover. Repeat if necessary.
Method
B:
If an oil stain resists method A, scrub with a trisodium phosphate solution.
Method
C:
Bleach the surface with laundry bleach.
Stains
varying in intensity from light yellow to brown sometimes occur on interior
concrete and terrazzo floors. They
may be due to the original finishing of the floor or the cleaning operations.
Such discolorations are usually not hard to remove; it is possible to
bring the surface back to its original appearance by applying a Javelle-water-impregnated
poultice or by scrubbing the surface with Javelle water.
Stains
other than those discussed can be removed by experimenting with different
bleaches or solvents on an inconspicuous area.
The treated area should always be thoroughly scrubbed with clear water
after the treatment so that no traces of the removing agent remain.
Further information is available in our Advanced Cleaning
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