Exposed Aggregate Concrete & concrete complete

----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, June 25, 2004 5:29 PM
Subject: Ask an Expert

> Name - Jeff
> Email -XXXXXXXXXXXX
> Subject - GENERAL INFORMATION
> Question - Hi Art,
> I'm going to put a little exposed aggregate in my front yard (approx. 8
Yards). I have poured regular concrete before but not aggregate. My question
is, do still "tamp" the mix in the form or will that push the aggregate to
low? Also do I need to trowel the top before I expose the rock or do I just
bull float it.
>
> Thank you for your time.
> Jeff B.
> Date: 25 June 2004 - 20:29

Jeff,
After you install the concrete into the form, it is most important
you stogg the concrete into the tight areas, and then follow up with a
tamping on the outer surface of the sides and or bulkheads. The mix is
usually so heavy with stone it won't consolidate to the bottom.
The long and short is this, If you've placed concrete before, after
bull-floating you spray the retarder (surface etch) onto the surface (follow
instructions) the retarder will take care of the rest.

Art Sampson
www.exposedaggregateconcrete.com
ACP International

ps. you can order chemical retarders right to your door online

> Name - Sheldon
> Email - XXXXXXXXXXX
> Subject - REPAIRING CONCRETE
> Question - I just recently poured a patio slab of exposed concrete and
used a retarding agent to acheive the results. For the most part it turned
out great, however, there are a couple small (50mm) holes as well as a
couple areas where the aggregate plucked away more than desired. Is there a
fix or patch method I can use to fix these defects?
>
> Date: 30 June 2004 - 15:04

Sheldon,
try using a clear single component epoxy. Mix with same sand
used in concrete mix (red usually) so you create a paste, then work into
holes. Then creatively insert some colored pebbles (not to exceed flatwork
height) sweep sand over top while setting, then allow to harden. After which
the shiny sealer can be applied.

Hope this is helpful.
Art Sampson
www.exposedaggregateconcrete.com

----- Original Message -----
From: <>
To: < www.exposedaggregateconcrete.com>
Sent: Friday, July 09, 2004 2:40 PM
Subject: Ask an Expert

> Name - Arnold Martin
> Email - XXXXXXXXX
> Subject - TECHNICAL QUESTION
> Question - We are pouring our own parking lot. It will take about 600
yards of concrete: The ground is as solid and compacted as can be, can I get
by without using steel? If not, what would be a minimun gird of the steel?
>
> Also, what would be a good size to pour each section?
> Is it necessary to use fiber?
> (I love this website: thank you all)

Arnold,
thank you for writing and choosing exposed aggregate as a
decorative choice for your new concrete parking lot. 600 yards would be a
big pour, I'm sure you will be pouring in smaller increments. And I would
recommend sawcutting the expansion joints at 20% of the thickness in depth,
and cut your sections to be no more then 75 sqft. This will maximize the
effectiveness of the joints, and minimize unsightly hair lining. Now as for
reinforcement, I always recommend the use of wire mesh. Wire mesh is a
primary reinforcement unlike fiber which is unsightly and has minimal effect
on compressive strength and ability to hold concrete in place. A minimal
grid size of 6" x 6" 9 gauge should be adequate and cost effective. Hope all
goes well, pass on our website to concrete contractors. You may consider
using our chemical retarder (Surface Etch) for your project.

Thanks for writing
Art Sampson
www.exposedaggregateconcrete.com
ACP International
(902) 830-2551 ph.
(902) 479-2551 fax

Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2004 10:33 PM
Subject: Ask an Expert

> Name - keith peterson
> Email - XXXXXXXXXXX
> Subject - SEALER PROBLEM
> Question - Hi...
>
> I have aggregate concrete patio's, decks and as a border around an asphalt
driveway. I have a total of about 5000 sq.ft. of surface.
>
> I prefer the wet look to the dry look... I live in SW washington. I have
looled at several options, yet very confused on which to select.
>
> I sealed my garage floors with Miller Paints #4571 clear acrylic laquer,
yet was told this was not a good choice for exterior even though I like the
look. I also put down Sherwin & Williams #B44V2001 in a small area, yet
after 2-3 coats... I don't like the look.
>
> What would you recommend? Are you aware of Expo-Gloss?
>
> Thanks and look forward to your prompt reply.
>
> Keith
Answer:

Keith,
Yes I'm aware of expo-gloss, can't say I like or promote it to
anyone. It's tinted which is really wrong, it's non breathable with causes
may problems down the road, and because they use a cheap acrylic it yellows
from UV rays. What I would recommend using is MasterBuilders J-25 or J-35.
Also if sika is available, sika clear seal 2 is a good product as well. They
should be available from most industrial supply sales.

Good luck
Art Sampson
www.exposedaggregateconcrete.com
ACP International

Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2004 2:29 PM
Subject: Ask an Expert

> Name - robert
> Email - xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject - HOW TO EXPOSE
> Question - hi to get a deep exsposer i heard you can use suger i am
looking for a well exposed round rock not damged by sand blasting not sure
what to use and exactly when to aplly sugar ,retarder or chemical and when
to preassure whash thank x

Robert,
You wouldn't purchase hundreds of dollars worth of concrete, and
use sugar to try and expose it would you? Not a good idea. Sugar may
interfere with the set of concrete, but it's far from a suitable retarder.
Our Surface Etch retarder would be a good choice for a first time user like
your self. If you follow the simple instructions you will get the results
your looking for. there is a ton of great information on the website:
www.exposedaggregateconcrete.com with placement techniques, timings, an so
on. On an average day @ 75-80degrees washing may commence as early as 4 hrs,
and may be as long as 8 hrs. In any event the concrete should never be left
unwatched once it is reaching its point of washing.

Hope this is helpful
Art Sampson
ACP International

Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2004 11:53 AM
Subject: Ask an Expert

> Name - Lawrence Santana
> Email - xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject - SEALER PROBLEM
> Question - Need some advise. My problem is one of odor. I have four
small dogs that have taken to urinating on my exposed concrete deck. The
deck has never been sealed and over time, especially when the concrete gets
wet the odor is very pungent. I've used various products to try and heard
them to the grass but over a short period of time they wash off and I'm back
to square one.
> Again the concrete has never been sealed and I've been given advise for
removing the odor then sealing the the concrete. The fisrt is to
clean/scrub the surface with a mild solution of muratic acid and water then
apply a sealer. Second is to use a solution of household bleach and again
apply the sealer. Are either of these methods acceptable or do you have
another that might work better? Sealers are another question. I have
purchased a couple of gallons of sealer by "Quick-Crete". It was fairly
econmomic and from the discription and instructions seemed as though it
would do the job.
> Thanks

Lawrence,
You may first want to try removing the odor with bleach
(javex), I would use it just slightly diluted and pour it out onto the deck
surface, then scrub with scrub brush and allow the bleach to set in, Then
rinse clean. The bleach will get rid of the odors, and may possibly keep the
dogs from urinating on the concrete as well. Most dogs don't like when other
dogs mark certain spots, and they generally will cover it up by marking the
spot over with there urine. Find the dog that's starting this, keep him in
check and the other dogs will follow. Another idea is to use the patio as a
play area. play with the dogs after the deck is cleaned, this will take some
time, but dogs won't urinate where they play or eat.

Hope this is helpful
Art Sampson
ACP International

> Name - bob
> Email - xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject - HOW TO EXPOSE
> Question - I have been finishing concrete for many years and have never
done an exposed aggregate finish. I know I need to apply a release agent
then wash it off, but I suspect timing the application is very important.
When do I apply the agent???

Bob,
The best way to describe the timing is at around the same time you
would start brooming a broomed finish, you would apply the retarder. You
usually have about 20-30 mins. after bull floating to apply retarder, and
washing can be as soon as the concrete hardens. If a house floor poured
outside finishes in 4 hours, an exposed aggregate pour would be ready to
wash in 4 hours.

Hopefully this will help answer your question

Art Sampson
ACP international

Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2004 11:56 AM
Subject: Ask an Expert

> Name - michael scherbyn
> Email - xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject - HOW TO EXPOSE
> Question - we have a exsposed aggregate mix which is delivered from the
plant. is it possible to just float off and hose off to expose the
aggregate.

Michael,
After the concrete is screeded and bullfloated, usually at
the same time you might broom the finish, you should be applying a retarder
to delay the set at the surface. Then once the concrete is hardened you can
wash away the top revealing a flawless finish.
I'm afraid if you attempt to wash with out retarders you will destroy the
integrity of the concrete at the surface. Check out the instructions
available on our website: www.exposedaggregateconcrete.com If you read up on
the chemical retarders that we offer you will be able to formularize
yourself with the procedure. We also have retarders available online and
they can be delivered right to your door.

Good luck with the pour.
Art Sampson

Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2004 9:30 AM
Subject: Ask an Expert

> Name - Chad Moser
> Email - xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject - HOW TO EXPOSE
> Question - I would like to do exposed aggregate on steps. I have
retardant for the tops, but how do I do the stairs...is there a paper or
something that I would put on the forms, and where would I get it?

Chad,
Unfortunately there are no local suppliers in your area of our
fine line of retarders. We do offer online purchasing, and we will ship
right to your door. Try our online catalog at www.exposedaggregateconcrete.com

The product required for vertical exposed is Vertical Etch, You may want to
read up on the information and usage instructions online. Vertical ETch
Retarder is a ready to use, water based form retarder. It's a red liquid
which reveals aggregate on formed surfaces in fresh concrete by delaying the
surface set, so that the formed surface paste may be brushed and washed away
from between the aggregate particles to produce a uniformed etch, and
attractive exposed aggregate finish. Used on the wooden forms of steps,
curbs, walls or anywhere an exposed aggregate concrete finish is wanted on a
vertical surface.

Good luck with your project
Art Sampson

Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 5:09 PM
Subject: Ask an Expert

> Name - Kathleen E. Dussault, PE
> Email - xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject - TECHNICAL QUESTION
> Question - We are specifying Exposed Aggregate for Detectable warnings for
ADA compliance at Handicap ramps and accessible routes that cross vehicle
traffic. We've got a question about whether this is a slipping hazard when
pea gravel is used. Any feedback?
> Also, we will be working in several states: VA, GA, FLA TX What does the
freeze/thaw cycles do to exposed aggregate?
> Thank you,
> Kathleen

Kathleen ,
I think that outlining your cities crosswalks and ramps
with aggregate is great. This is not something new however. Many
municipalities use exposed aggregate concrete to not only beautify, but to
increase the serviceability and wear ability of there sidewalks. The
aggregate will stand long against the elements compared to a fine cement
broomed finish. The use of salt will not peel the finish away. It is a fact
that exposed aggregate concrete and exposed finishes are the most durable
products and finishes available today, in any climate.
You were concerned with slipperiness and I can assure you there is nothing
less slippery then exposed aggregate, unless a high build acrylic sealer is
used. These sealers are more a beautifier then a protection layer, and
should not be used in your application (for residential only). Instead the
city should specify penetrating cure/seal this would be a one time only
application at the time of placement.

ps. If you need help writing a spec for this process let me know.

Hope this gives some insight
Art Sampson
ACP International
(902) 830-2551

Sent: Thursday, November 04, 2004 8:36 AM
Subject: Ask an Expert

> Name - Steve Chomanics
> Email - xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject - GENERAL INFORMATION
> Question - After you pour the concrete to be used for an aggregate
> sidewalk, do you use a chemical, and then a separate sealer ? I am a
> little unclear on that . Thanks, Steve.

Steve,
           It goes as follows: 1 - pour, screed and bull float area to be
exposed.
                                        2 - spray Surface Etch (retarder
[follow instructions] ) onto surface using garden sprayer.
                                        3 - allow to set hard enough to walk
on without damaging surface (usually 4-12 hrs temp. depending)
                                        4 - using a garden hose or pressure
washer, remove the top layer of mortar paste, revealing the underlying
decorative stones.
                                        5 - next day you should saw cut,
rinse off, then acid wash (muratic acid 50% with water) and rinse clean.
allow to dry.
                                        6 - usually in the next couple days
a high build acrylic sealer may be applied to achieve the WET LOOK. this is
the last step, If the wet look is not desired a penetrating sealer may be
used.

Good luck with your project
Art Sampson
ACP International

Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2004 8:11 AM
Subject: Ask an Expert

> Name - Bill Soper
> Email - xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject - GENERAL INFORMATION
> Question - How much above regular flatwork should I charge a customer for
> an exposed aggregate finish? Thanks,
> Bill

Answer:

Bill,
Generally you should charge 25% more for exposed over broomed
finished flatwork. This may very as to the size and scope of the work
dictates. For decorative front steps you may charge as much as $800.00 -
$1000.00 per yard used in forms for example ( a step 4x8 ft landing with 5
risers @ 1ft should take approximately 3 cu.yards. The cost then could be
$ 2400.00 - $3000.00 finished) this should include concrete, formwork, and finishing.

Hope this is helpful
Art Sampson
president
www.exposedaggregateconcrete.com
ACP International

Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2004 9:04 PM
Subject: Ask an Expert

> Name - John Suhrie
> Email - xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject - WHAT WENT WRONG
> Question - Had an exposed aggregate driveway installed May 2002. After
> first winter surface started scaling. Now all areas have scaling spots. 2"
> to 6" wide and 1/4" to 1/2" deep. Looks like the surface of the moon.
> What are the likely causes?
> Are there methods to repair damage like this?

John,
We only promote chemical retarded finishes due to breakdown in
the top finish with seeding. Unless the aggregate was seeded onto the
surface. There's very little that could be wrong. If your finish was
retarded then you should pursue the ready mix company that manufactured your
concrete and have them take a look. They are responsible to supply a
quality, resilient product, otherwise this is unacceptable. I'm sure you
already have your finisher involved, if they seeded........ there fault poor
practice; otherwise have the concrete tested.

ps. tell others about our website!

Good luck
Art Sampson
ACP International

Sent: Sunday, December 26, 2004 9:03 PM
Subject: Ask an Expert

> Name - Michelle
> Email - xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject - GENERAL INFORMATION
> Question - I have been told to avoid exposed aggregate concrete as a deck
> surround surface around pools because it is slippery? Any truth to this?

Michelle,
               There is truth to what you've been told. Most installers of
exposed aggregate will apply a high build acrylic sealer. This sealer gives
the wet look, which is desirable because it enhances the stones and colors.
Unfortunately this acrylic is what makes it slippery, other wise unsealed
the surface should be fine, although I would recommend using an aggregate
less then 3/8" - 1/2" minus.
                  A larger complaint that I get from people who install
exposed aggregate around a pool is that it tends to be harsh on little feet
and knees. Skin is quite fragile once wet. I've often recommended to other
people to install outdoor carpet on there surround till the little ones
grow.
                   If you choose to install exposed aggregate I would
recommend installing a proper copping with smooth concrete where you enter
and exit the pool.

Good luck with your project
Art Sampson
ACP International

Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2005 8:33 PM
Subject: Ask an Expert

> Name - Stanley Lamontagne
> Email - xxxxxxxxx
> Subject - NONE
> Question - I am the chair of a housing complex in the lower mainland of
> British Columbia. The entrance to our complex and the driveways are made
> of aggregate concrete.
> The winter temperatures are sometimes in the freezing range.
> We have been looking for the correct de-icing material to use.
> The stores only carry products that are not to be used on aggregate as
> de-icers
> Can you please advise as to what products are suitable to use as de-icers
> on aggregate concrete.
> Thank you very much
> Regards
> Stan

Stanley,
If the concrete is over one year old, or has
already gone through a winter, save your money and just use light amounts of
salt. I often recommend blending traction sand and salt to increase traction
and reduce salt damage. No ice melt products are good for concrete. But some
cause a more violent reaction then salt and shouldn't be used (i.e.. calcium
chlorides, urea,etc...) A lot is dependent on the concrete, and the
installer. If the concrete is high strength and is air entrained it should
be resilient to the freeze thaw, and after one year of curing, the use of
salt shouldn't cause damage.

The following is an article we have published on our website for
winter driveway care: click here

> Name - norman mcmillan
> Email - xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject - HOW TO EXPOSE
> Question - i have been asked to pour an octagon shaped pedestal for a bronze monument. the pedestal is 9 feet in diameter and 3 feet high. my question is how can i form it and have the sides of the structure be exposed aggregate?

> Name - Teresa Kelley
> Email - xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject - WHAT WENT WRONG
> Question - 5 days ago we had a contractor pour a small patio of hand seeded exposed aggregate. It was poured mid day and the were 'exposing the concrete' about 6pm that night given the cooler weather conditions, ~60 degrees. That night it rained quite hard. When it did dry two days later there was a white film on top that we can not remove. We called the contractor telling him something is wrong and we need it fixed and he said that we need to wait a month and then apply a sealer. This does not seem right and what should we ask of our contractor to fix it.

ACP International

Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2005 1:13 PM

Subject: Ask an Expert

> Name - jaimie bulla
> Email - xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject - VERTICAL RETARDERS
> Question - we are in the planning stages of a home in northern michigan. we have designed the first level perimeter vertical walls to have exposed river rock aggregate. however, we know very little about the process except from what we have gleaned from the internet (which is not much). do you know of any residential applications like this? is an exposed river rock aggregate appropriate for this application? is the forming, retardant, and washing process just too difficult for most contractors? does the retardant affect the forms for future applications? if we wanted a specific river rock mix and look, how do we go about this? are their professionals who can give us the best concrete/river rock mix? is there anytype of aggregate concrete mix that has a decent R value? can this wall have an insulated cavity from inside the wall? who is the best person to ask these questions of?
>
>
> Date: 27 February 2005 - 17:13

Answer:

Jamie,

I'll address your questions one at a time:

Q: do you know of any residential applications like this?

A: Yes, If a concrete wall is required above grade, you can expose to face by retarder or sandblasting.Secondly if the wall is or can be a structural insulated wall or a poured insulated wall(Styrofoam forms) there are coatings that may suit your application (i.e..Perma-Crete)

Q: is an exposed river rock aggregate appropriate for this application?

A: River rock contains excellent material for concrete, most stones are harder then quartzite.

Q: is the forming, retardant, and washing process just too difficult for most contractors?

A: No, exposed aggregate is easy to perform when instructions are followed. Most concrete finishing companies should offer exposed aggregate. You may also want to talk to your local ready mix companies. If they lack the knowledge try out of town companies to be sure you get an appropriate mix design.

Q: does the retardant affect the forms for future applications?

A: This would depend on the form retarders used. Some retarders are like a thick paint that will not come of the forms, and will show on concrete in future pours. Our retarders are non staining and will work great for your application. Both Vertical Etch and Vertical Gel are alcohol based and should be used on clean surfaces. If forms have been oiled they should be lined with 1/4" plywood or not be used at all. New plywood is best.

Q: if we wanted a specific river rock mix and look, how do we go about this?

A: It will be costly but you can pour samples in patio stones to test color and desired finish. These would be great practice also. Otherwise see what the local contractors have available.

Q: are their professionals who can give us the best concrete/river rock mix?

A: You most defiantly want a reputable ready mix supply company, and a reputable contractor. Exposed aggregate is slightly specialized and you must insist on seeing the types of finishes they have performed and references.

Q: is there any type of aggregate concrete mix that has a decent R value? can this wall have an insulated cavity from inside the wall? who is the best person to ask these questions of?

A: Concrete can be poured into Styrofoam forms, giving an R value of 12 I believe. These are becoming quite popular in not just basement designs, but whole home construction. The faces of these forms remain in place after pouring and are finished with siding, stucco, brick, or in your case an aggregate finish can be applied to look like exposed aggregate. I know Perma-Crete offer a product like that. And the old way, insulating from the inside creating an air cavity with framing, and using Styrofoam on concrete with vapor barrier and fiber glass pink. This will give you up to R-30, and creates a thick wall look that I like, with accents on the window boxes and so on. A real look of integrity.

Please mention us to your contact people, we have great chemicals and the best advice.

Good luck with your project

Art Sampson

president

www.exposedaggregateconcrete.com

Sent: Friday, February 18, 2005 2:50 PM

Subject: Ask an Expert

> Name - Marcy Berry
> Email - xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject - PLANNING A PROJECT
> Question - Hello: I am working on a project for company and would like to find a contractor experienced in applying exposed aggregate to interior steps as well as exterior steps and a small landing at a building we own. I would like to contact an installer directly rather than hiring a contractor who in turn, will hire an installer. Where would I go to bet bids on this project and hire someone who knows the product? I live and work in the Western Suburbs of Chicago Illinois. Thank you for your time in this matter!
> Marcy Berry

Answer:

Marcy,

The best advice I can give you is to contact contractors in the Yellow-Pages. Look under the heading of concrete/ sub-title: Placement and finishing.

You may also try contacting a local ready mix company (yellow-pages heading concrete supply) they may be able to suggest someone who is talented in finishing exposed aggregate. As always I recommend you ask to physically see the finishes they've done.

Hope this is helpful

Art Sampson

www.exposedaggregateconcrete.com

Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2005 4:04 PM

Subject: somthing about your website

We replaced a sidewalk at our church in the late summer and now are experiencing flaking on certain areas. The work was done by a reputable contractor and we used a deicer made in Quebec (Mg Cl2) that was sold at Home Depot for icing. We believe that the concrete mix may have been flawed. A permanent repair is the only option. How do we determine if the mix was bad - if so, what is the best option to repair this? Can or will you give us the correct path to proceed?

D. Clapper, 9.0 security BETA TEST group

( PA-USA)

Answer:

Mr.Clapper,

This is a sensitive subject. Passing the blame I call it. Well here's the low down. The ready mix company is responsible to produce a resilient, high quality ready mix concrete (Must contain 5-6% air entrainment for freeze/thaw) and this can be tested and proven true. The contractor or installer must use approved placement techniques. When using air entrained concrete he must not over work the top (this will increase the air content at the surface)If the concrete tests to be OK then the finisher may be blamed for over working or adding too much water. And the customer must agree not to use any ice melting products for one year to allow the concrete to come to strength and full resilience (I believe you should discontinue using your ice melt product) There truly is NO SAFE ICE MELT PRODUCT available. Watch what your reading, it likely says less damaging to concrete then salt, or beneficial to environment. This is usually because they are made from fertilizer based chlorates, and my not effect the grass, but generates a great deal of heat that will peel the finish off any new concrete even in warm conditions. It is so important not to use ice melt in the first year of curing. You know it seems unfair but you would have done better with road salt then fertilizer.

Wish I could be more specific as to who's to blame but its a huge grey area. Sometimes a fight not worth fighting. Most ready mix suppliers will go good for there concrete without testing as testing can get costly. I would suggest that open communication should be kept between all parties, and a resolve with some compromise should be achievable. In my experience with ready mix plants being computer run there is very little room for error outside of water addition. This is why independent site testing of the fresh concrete is critical.

Good Luck

Art Sampson

www.exposedaggregateconcrete.com

ACP International